I am not sure which of us said it first, but I know we were both thinking it.
You see we had left Aracaju after breakfast, and thanks to our reliance on satnav, got totally lost driving the mere 26km to the historic Sao Cristovao (but more on that later) then after getting a wee bit lost again (thanks to the satnav) we had finally made it onto the Linha Verde (the green line) a stunning stretch of green forests and golden beaches (and an awesome driving road) just north of Bahia – the capital of Salvador.
So we were running a bit behind schedule and running out of time to find lunch, so we took the first road we found that appeared to be heading to the beach, a mere 16km of bumpy pot holed sand blown motor cross course later we made it to a lovely little beach town (but we never found out the name). Unfortunately as it was Monday and well into mid afternoon there wasn’t that many choices for lunch, so we took the only option available, a very tired look beach shack with a set of plastic chairs set into the sand and very bored looking teenager sitting in the front room of the beach shack watching a soap opera on tv. The place looked like a set for a food hygiene commercial, it was dirty, worn out and was the kind of place that tv travel shows don’t show when they showcase a country.
But we didn’t have much option, so after confirming that we were going to surely get food poisoning, we decided to eat, I choose the fried lingüiça (a traditional brasilian sausage and a brasilian pub food stable) and Cath went for the chicken (hoping it was grilled), we placed our order then settled in to enjoy the view (which was pretty magic, a wind blown tropical beach with swaying palm trees and not another person in sight).
After about 20 minutes of nothing much happening we heard a fury of chopping coming from the back of the beach shack, then a pause and another attack of chopping, we figured either the cook had slaughtered the boy serving, or our lunch was going to be really fresh (or maybe a combination of the two)?
Another 20 minutes passed, by this time we had pretty much given up on anything arriving and were just enjoying our drinks and talking about what we would have for dinner that night in Salvador, the our food arrived…
Wow we were sure wrong about this place, instead of food poisoning we got a great lesson in good old fashioned basic brasilian cooking, my sausage was perfect, fried with giant slabs of onion and served with home made chips and a home made chilli sauce, caths chicken (which must have been freshly slaughtered) was again perfectly done with a spicy crunchy crust and a great tomato, cucumber salad with rice and lashing of farofa.
All in all, the perfect beachside lunch, so after enjoying the great meal, we paid our bill, left our hosts a big tip and got back on the road….
Another great and surprising experience on our north east adventure.
But as I mentioned, we started off the day with a trip to Sao Cristovao, one of the oldest cities in brasil, it was created in the Portuguese style up on a high hill overlooking lots of land, unfortunately the much more practical/logical/sensible dutch arrived/invaded some 100 years later and started a new much more practical/logical/sensible city only 20 odd kms away on the coast at a natural port that became the state capital of Aracaju. So as is often the way, the town of Sao Cristovao got basically abandoned and thus was preserved fairly well, giving us a great place to go sight seeing. The pictures pretty much speak for themselves, there is a couple of beautiful churches (all going renovation at the moment), then a really cute town around them on the hill full of lots of postcard pretty little houses and shops:
Olde Churche No 1
Olde Churche No 2
Olde Churche No 3
Olde House No 1
Olde House No 2
My house is bigger than yours!
Still saving for the rest of the bricks?
Much like family, you cant pick your neighbours!
The sign reads:
Bar, door, window
What more could you want in life?