11 September, 2011

So after four great days on safari near Mt Kenya, we made the seven hour cross Kenya journey including cars, 2 flights on 8 seater planes and a grass landing to get to Kiwayu Safari Village. So much fun!!!

The Kiwayu airport terminal and shuttle bus.

Kiwayu beach resort is everything we wanted it to be. Quiet, very quiet.

The beach at Kiwayu

6 hours by road to the nearest shop, no running water, generator electricity, but thanks to a phone executive who fell in love with the place – the best wifi I have seen travelling in Africa! The resort is right on the beach.

The resort at Kiwayu

It used to be a safari site as well, however with poaching this sadly ended in the 70s. All that is left are some pretty cheeky monkeys and the friendly locals.

We arrived mid way through the afternoon, and were greeted with a team of resort workers who soon wrestled our bags from us and took them straight to our banda’s.

Mums bag being delivered!

Our Banda

The view from our banda

We then gratefully devoured huge bowls of fresh pasta with tomato sauce and basil – just awesome. This set the scene for many of the other culinary delights that were yet to come. The resort used to be owned by an Italian family who entrusted the running to his daughter and son in law George.

The place is now run by George, a softly spoken gent I suspect from deepest darkest Surrey who has found the way to live! Like all cool people in life, George use to be an Insurance Broker.

The resort consists of 18 banda’s, most of which have a capacity for 2-3 people. There are no walls, no windows and no real floors on the banda’s. Each have to be re-made every 10 years and the team from the local village take the opportunity to re-model them each time. From the main bed, there is a direct, unobstructed view on to the beach. The toilet / shower is attached to each of banda’s and remembering there are no windows, walls etc, let me say “showering” in the open, was an interesting, er-hum, “liberating” experience.

Our magical bathroom with ocean views from the shower and toilet!

Our walk to dinner became a hop, skip and a jump as we literally had to dodge the thousands of crabs scutterling across our path. Our head torches soon became essential apparatus for any night time endeavour. I have never seen so many it was like the sand had changed colour.

Speaking of food, our first dinner consisted of piles of lobster and sparkling Rose – being allergic to most things in shells, the team were fantastic in preparing awesome alternatives for me, including the freshest turbot with ginger, herbs & coconut rice. With flambéed bananas to end, we were given yet another reminder that life was pretty bloody good!

The restaurant and lobby

The bar

Sleeping at night was difficult at first. You become accustomed to walls, windows, a defined space that is only yours. To hand yourself back to nature and into the arms of moonlight and stars was difficult. It was hard to put my mind at rest for what was out there, but soon the sound of the ocean came swirling in and I found myself woken by sunlight.

Our bedroom

Our days consisted of walking along the beach, heading to the island (just 10 minutes in a speedboat), walking through the village, lounging on day beds, reading and sharing each other’s company. We also devoured endless amounts of fresh pasta, lobster, crab, prawns, salads, cheeses, fresh sorbets, fruits. Not too mention cocktails, bubbles, wines, cold beer, coconut juice etc …

The sun room at the back of our banda – just perfect!

In summary, it was a terrific place, to just get away from it all. Thoroughly enjoyed and no doubt will be recommended to friends and family.

NOTE: We were at Kiwayu between 31 August to 3 September. On 11 September it was reported that a British woman was abducted and the husband were killed. Our thoughts go to the family and to George and his family.